Living Style & Dresses

LIVING STYLE

The community is mostly non-vegetarian but they mostly take the meat of goat, sheep and chicken. Families, who keep poultry, also take eggs. Their staple food consists of makki-ki-roti and occasionally wheat chapatti with mah and rongi (pulses). Children take goat milk, whereas elders use milk in tea. Occasionally lassi (curd milk) is also taken. They also make moderate use of vegetables, including roots and tubers, and fruits. Mustard oil is the usual cooking medium. People are very fond of sur (home made alcoholic drink) which is taken on occasions. Women consume it only on festive and social occasions. They also smoke tobacco in hukka, which forms a part of their daily sittings. Their special madira (liquor) along with a sweet preparation is a must on all social and festive occasions. They usually spend plenty of time to sit on the verandah or on the stone balustrade and gently smoke a hookah and chat. Each Gaddi group is largely an endogamous. Each section is further subdivided into a number of exogamous gotras which are of two types the anderla (or the rishi gotra) and baherla (or the territorial gotra) denoting the place of origin Gotra. Rajput Gaddis continue to write ‘Singh’ as their surname; which indicates their Rajput origin. The communities perceive its superiority and are regarded as high in social hierarchy and the fact is acknowledged by all neighboring communities. The Rajput, Rathi and Khatri communities align themselves with the Kshatriyas (Hindus).

DRESSES

The Gaddies wear a simple traditional dress normally. On Special Occasions they wear full traditional dresses with full ornaments. Ladies wear mostly silver and gold. Gents wear mostly silver.The Gaddi man is identified by typical dress which consists of a chola and dora whereas the woman by luanchiri (a flared skirt). The women also adorn gold earrings, which are worn by men too. Men also wear white turban, which is a characteristic of the Gaddi dress. The people specially women are experts in weaving pattu and gardu (blankets) which used to be the prime clothe to make Gaddi dress.

Most of the hill women of Himachal are free of the restrictions of purdah and excessive modesty but the Gaddis or Gaddi women seem to be particularly outgoing, friendly and full of self-confidence to everyone. The only exception is that in the presence of any of their older male in-laws they immediately cover their heads. They wear a distinctive and attractive dress; the long, gathered skirts reminiscent of the clothes depicted in old wood carving and miniature pictures of the area. Over their head they wear a cloth, usually decorated with floral embroidery which they work themselves. They have large earrings, gold or silver, solid gold nose pieces, necklaces of amber, silver, gold and pendants with fine enamelling- often depicting Shiva and Parvati -or plain silver embossed pieces commemorating their ancestors. Their chins are patterned with a finely marked, circular tattoo, sometimes their hands and arms too. Some wear a coat-dress of white homespun tweed down to the ground, the lapels decorated with an embroidered flower. The more fashionable version is a velvet blouse with broad cuffs, joined to a very full skirt, reaching the ground, of colourful chintz. It takes twelve yards of cloth and is forty four feet at the hem which is lined with a contrasting colour and stitched round and round many times. Whatever the style of the chaura, dress, it is waisted with the dhora or woollen belt. The long chaura is cumbersome to walk in, they often have to hitch it up. But a traditional Gaddini does not like to be seen out and about without it, though at home she often strips down to the Punjabi- style salwar and kameez, pyjamas and long overshirt, which she wears underneath. On the end of her plait, on the blouse fastening, and often pinned on the shoulder too, are the circular mirror medallions, decorated with buttons and beads’ that Gaddinis make and often give each other as expressions of affection.

DRESSES IN DETAILS:

Traditional dress of the gaddi community is typical easily distinguishable from other people of habitat by the way gaddis are dressed. Though the clothing pattern is going thru change with the passage of time, yet ‘Chola and Dora’ dress and is worn or considered on most of the festivals and occasions. Gaddis engaged in agricultural and allied pursuits wear pyjamas like other local people. Gaddi shepherds used to wear their traditional dress which is changing as well.

Traditional male gaddis wear’Chola'(or Cholu) which is a long loose woolen dress upto their knees and tied round their waist with several rounds with Dora. Gaddis women also wear similar type of dress is normally made from `Long Cloth’ which is manufactured ‘Chola’ is white one. The chola is made up of ‘Patti'(hand spun woolen cloth) and is stitched in such a way that Gaddi during migration keeps new born lambs in his ‘Chola’. Baby Lambs can be 5-6 kilogram in weight. ‘Chola’ is used as bedding also. Special design of the ‘Chola’ is made of wool as earlier this apparel used to be the dress of Lord Shiva.

 

Dora is most important part of the dress as it is wworn over ‘Chola’ or ‘Luanchri’ round the waist. But to mean, woman and child. The maximum length of a ‘female wear ‘dora’ measuring about 50 Mts where as for men it may be the 10 to 25 Mts. The maximum weight is 2 kg. which is worn by adult males. The ‘Dora’ of adult woman weighs in between If to 2 Kgrs, whereas the `dora’ of children is about half kilogram in weight. It is made of wool and is ususlally black in colour. Dora’ is worn due to a number of reasons.It is used as saddle for carrying the load on the back. It is used as rope for carrying luggage known as “Kachhi”. It keeps the waist erect specially while climbing up the hills. Small articles like leather pouch of tobacco, flute and money bag are tied in it. This is also used as pillow especially during journeys. It has a religious touch as well and gaddis take it as a sign of ‘Lord Shiva”.

Legs used to be generally kept naked by men earlier. “Suthan” or “Pyjama” is worn on certain occasions especially on marriages etc.This “Pyjama” or “Suthan” is of cotton or woollen(also called ‘Unali-suthan’) whicn is tight below the knees up to ankle and loose above knees. A loose shirt “Kurti”, is worn by men under “Chola”. This “Kurti” or “Kurta” is made of cotton cloth.

 

Both cap and turban are used to cover the head. The most common topi (cap) is made of woollen piece of cloth and is a round one which is 5 to 6 inches in height. Woollen topi which is known as “Bushari topi” in Himachal is also worn. Gaddis are found of Kalgi and flowers. They stitch kalgi on the topi and keep flowers on their turbans especially on marriages and fairs.The peak of the gaddi cap is said to represent the Kailash mountain peak. Women wear “luanchri” which is made of cotton cloth of special pattern and design.Complete luanchri reaches down to the ankles, it is worn in the same way as chola is worn by male gaddis. ‘Chadru” is used by gaddans to cover the head. Mostly it is coloured muslin. The approximate length is two metres.Female costume consists of luanchari,dora along with a dupatta with frill, called Ghundu. It required 20 m of fabric to make a luanchari.

 

Gaddis mostly wear shoes made by local cobblers. Shoes are generally made up of leather, called Mocharu are heavy sturdy and last for longer time. These are rough looking but a durable shoes also called “Jutta”.Footwear of ladies are also heavy in general and has colorful handicraft designs but lighter than mens footwears. Ladies also wear chappals mostly purchased from markets. Previously ladies were found bare footed but now the time has changed and they use chappals and shoes especially of plastic. For their children they purchase shoes made of plastic or cloth from the market.

 

During marriages gaddi boy(groom) traditionaly wears a very fascinating and attractive dress called Kadd or Luancha.It is a long red or maroon colored cotton frock with similar colored yolk. It is decorated with different types of mirrors, frills and pippins.The waist of the Kadd is tied with a white and yellow cotton piece called a Patka.A red or marron colored shawl is also taken over the Kadd.On the head groom wears a very intricate crown called Sehra made by local people, i consists of ‘chiris’ desinged coloreful sticks in its circumference.